Stewart Goes Walkies is pleased to continue with Allen Lai’s Adventures in Peru. Protests and strikes bring out the best in the travel agent.
Introduction
Late last night the bomb was dropped. One of the travel highlights of the street, the deluxe Inca train from Lake Titicaca to Cusco was canceled due to a strike. So, we were now stranded 10 hours away from our next stop. This is the time an expert travel agent showed professionalism. In a very short time, Gogo Tour managed to secure a deluxe double-decker bus. They not only persuaded two drivers to take up the challenge but also managed to find two local guides, Alex and John to tag along in case of anything unforeseen.
The trip to Cusco
Basically, we traveled along the train track route, but we could stop every now and then to appreciate museums, churches, and restaurants along the way.
And, as we were traveling in a double-decker we enjoyed a much better view than if we had been on the train. (Does anyone remember Cliff Richards’ Summer Holiday?)
We even managed to stop at the highest point of 14,322 feet to shop for alpaca products from local vendors and use their outhouses. We were able to fully appreciate the surroundings. Unfortunately, the once snow-capped mountains are all bare due to global warming. Regardless, we were all in high spirits.
We did run into different roadblocks and will stop for several hours. The strikers were farmers demanding more supplies from the government. From what we saw along the way they certainly had our sympathy. We also learned how important it is in a democratic society, even in a third-world country, that people can exercise their rights, and express their concerns through demonstrations and strikes. My hat goes off to the farmers of Peru.
We were able to stop for a pleasant lunch
We arrived in Cusco at around 7:30 pm and checked in to the JW Marriot El Covento Hotel, a truly unique five-star hotel offering a delightful blend of historic grandeur and modern comfort.
Housed in a restored 16th-century convent in the heart of Cuzco, this boutique hotel also features a tiny museum exhibiting ancient Peruvian artifacts.
After a delightful dinner, we hurried to our room and got ready for the big day tomorrow. A hike up Rainbow mountain.
It had been an exciting day, with all the uncertainty and obstacles. But it was also a very adventurous day through which we were able to understand more of the country and the people.
Rainbow Mountain
Today was another highlight of the trip as it was the day we were to hike up the famous Rainbow Mountain. It was only discovered in 2015, thanks to global warming when the snow covering it melted, revealing the natural beauty of the rock beneath. Formed by weathering, environmental conditions, and sedimentary deposits over time, the mountain’s unique mineralogy creates a marbling effect, with laid hues of gold, lavender, red and turquoise.
Located high in the Andes at an altitude of 5200 m for a bit over 17,000 feet above sea level, Rainbow Mountain is just a touch lower than the Mount Everest base camp. It is higher than the highest peaks in Canada and the United States.
As it is nearly a four-hour drive away, most tourists will start from Cusco at around 3 a.m. However, the hotel breakfast was too good to miss, so we started at 7 a.m. We boarded a small van. In the first part of the journey we experienced crazy driving around the city, and then entered the beautiful and quiet countryside as we approach the mountain, that is when the excitement began.
The van zigzagged along the streets, and then a narrow winding mountain gravel road with sheer drop-offs. The views were breathtaking with tall mountains looming on both sides. I think on a few occasions one wheel actually traveled off-road. Client and the client, until we reach the tiny parking lot. It was from here we started our hike.
The first hundred metres were desperate, a stone staircase going straight up.
Then the winding path gradually ascended through a stunning pastoral scene complete with curious llamas and alpacas and friendly locals. That is when the magic happened. The rocks started changing colours. Distinctive touches of orange cascaded through darker cracks of stone overhead, while thick grass and moss brought a touch of greenery to the foreground. The track widened and steepened in the run-up to the final ascent. As we reach the ridge, the grand amphitheatre of the Andean highlands of Peru opened up. It was a truly breathtaking scene, what’s the snowy top of Ausangate Mountain in the Vista on one side and distant mountains clambering over one another on the horizon.
I can write all I want and post all the pictures I took, but nothing can replace the actual scenery that we experienced there, our hearts pounding, our lungs gasping for air, and our eyes trying to take in all the grandeur before us. Not long after we reached the top and took all the photos, the wind picked up, it became cold and miserable as if Mother Earth was reminding us that we didn’t conquer the mountain. We only reached the top through her mercy. We hurried back downhill and a long bus ride back to the hotel. (SGW – a famous British mountaineer, whose name I, unfortunately, do not recall once said, we do not conquer mountains, we sneak up them while they are not looking).
That night we wandered around the city centre of Cusco but my mind was still stuck in warm thoughts of Rainbow Mountain.
Conclusion
It says a lot about Allen’s tenacity as an explorer/traveler and the professionalism of the travel agent that he and his party were able to complete this section of the trip. SGW is very grateful for this part of his travels and we look forward to Part Four.
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